Is this a case of ground loop?











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I'm trying to power a 24V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema



UPDATE:



Thanks for your answers. Below is a suggested schema using a DC/DC Step down regulator to provide the 12V to the Arduino. I also added fuses in series with the battery bank. I assume that the shared ground would remove the possibility of short-circuit?



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor (UPDATED) schema










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  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    yesterday






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    yesterday










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    yesterday










  • Small question about the DC-DC converter, do the -ve terminals connect together inside the converter?
    – Oliver Broad
    19 hours ago










  • @OliverBroad I haven’t been able to find a data sheet for it and the description does not say it’s isolated, so I would assume it does connect.
    – A. Clement
    10 hours ago















up vote
8
down vote

favorite
3












I'm trying to power a 24V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema



UPDATE:



Thanks for your answers. Below is a suggested schema using a DC/DC Step down regulator to provide the 12V to the Arduino. I also added fuses in series with the battery bank. I assume that the shared ground would remove the possibility of short-circuit?



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor (UPDATED) schema










share|improve this question









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A. Clement is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
















  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    yesterday






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    yesterday










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    yesterday










  • Small question about the DC-DC converter, do the -ve terminals connect together inside the converter?
    – Oliver Broad
    19 hours ago










  • @OliverBroad I haven’t been able to find a data sheet for it and the description does not say it’s isolated, so I would assume it does connect.
    – A. Clement
    10 hours ago













up vote
8
down vote

favorite
3









up vote
8
down vote

favorite
3






3





I'm trying to power a 24V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema



UPDATE:



Thanks for your answers. Below is a suggested schema using a DC/DC Step down regulator to provide the 12V to the Arduino. I also added fuses in series with the battery bank. I assume that the shared ground would remove the possibility of short-circuit?



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor (UPDATED) schema










share|improve this question









New contributor




A. Clement is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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I'm trying to power a 24V DC motor using 2x 12V batteries, an Arduino and a Cytron MD10C Motor Driver. I followed the description on Cytron's website for how to connect the Arduino and the motor to the driver board. The 2 batteries are plugged in serie to provide 24V, then to the driver board power inputs.



On the first test with this schema, there were several issues, most importantly the GND wire between the Arduino and the driver board burned and some sparks appeared on the driver board when the motor was started using an Arduino signal. The Arduino also had some difficulties and kept rebooting.



I was wondering if this is a case of ground loop? If yes, how should the Arduino/driver board data section be isolated from the high current?



One of the battery is also connected to the Arduino to provide 12V input current (I now know this a bad practice, but left it on the schema in case it might play a role). In the future, the Arduino will be powered with a DC/DC switching regulator from the same 24V cables going to the motor driver.



Oddly enough, the schema works perfectly when the Arduino is powered by USB (from PC) and the driver board by 120V/5V AC wall converter. The motor driver also has test buttons which allow to test the board and power the motor without the need of an external MCU. When using those buttons, there are no sparks, nor burnt wires.



The Cytron datasheet does not indicate if the driver board is isolated, so I thought the motor current might go through it, then to the Arduino, then back to the battery.



The motor is a 24V DC motor (draws under 10Amps), similar to a windshield wiper motor. The batteries are 12V car batteries.



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor schema



UPDATE:



Thanks for your answers. Below is a suggested schema using a DC/DC Step down regulator to provide the 12V to the Arduino. I also added fuses in series with the battery bank. I assume that the shared ground would remove the possibility of short-circuit?



Arduino - Motor driver - DC motor (UPDATED) schema







arduino batteries dc-motor h-bridge groundloops






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Check out our Code of Conduct.











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edited 23 hours ago





















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asked yesterday









A. Clement

1413




1413




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New contributor





A. Clement is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.






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  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    yesterday






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    yesterday










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    yesterday










  • Small question about the DC-DC converter, do the -ve terminals connect together inside the converter?
    – Oliver Broad
    19 hours ago










  • @OliverBroad I haven’t been able to find a data sheet for it and the description does not say it’s isolated, so I would assume it does connect.
    – A. Clement
    10 hours ago














  • 4




    I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
    – Rev1.0
    yesterday






  • 1




    Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
    – winny
    yesterday










  • Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
    – Peter Bennett
    yesterday










  • Small question about the DC-DC converter, do the -ve terminals connect together inside the converter?
    – Oliver Broad
    19 hours ago










  • @OliverBroad I haven’t been able to find a data sheet for it and the description does not say it’s isolated, so I would assume it does connect.
    – A. Clement
    10 hours ago








4




4




I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
– Rev1.0
yesterday




I do not know the internals of the MD10C, but PWR- is probably more or less directly connected to GND. So you have a short circuit or at least very low impedance path between Arduino GND and PWR- with a potential difference of 12V.
– Rev1.0
yesterday




1




1




Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
– winny
yesterday




Why not just a common ground and take out the midpoint 12 V from your series connected batteries to your Arduino? The unbalanced load should be very small.
– winny
yesterday












Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
– Peter Bennett
yesterday




Your first sentence says "12 volt motor", but elsewhere you say "24 volt motor" - which is it?
– Peter Bennett
yesterday












Small question about the DC-DC converter, do the -ve terminals connect together inside the converter?
– Oliver Broad
19 hours ago




Small question about the DC-DC converter, do the -ve terminals connect together inside the converter?
– Oliver Broad
19 hours ago












@OliverBroad I haven’t been able to find a data sheet for it and the description does not say it’s isolated, so I would assume it does connect.
– A. Clement
10 hours ago




@OliverBroad I haven’t been able to find a data sheet for it and the description does not say it’s isolated, so I would assume it does connect.
– A. Clement
10 hours ago










2 Answers
2






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up vote
16
down vote













Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
enter image description here



Always use fuses with batteries.



Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
enter image description here





Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






share|improve this answer





















  • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
    – Stian Yttervik
    yesterday






  • 2




    Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
    – Jasen
    yesterday










  • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
    – patstew
    yesterday










  • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
    – Stian Yttervik
    yesterday










  • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
    – pipe
    yesterday


















up vote
2
down vote













There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



I would suggest the following:
1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






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    2 Answers
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    2 Answers
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    up vote
    16
    down vote













    Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
    enter image description here



    Always use fuses with batteries.



    Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
    enter image description here





    Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






    share|improve this answer





















    • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday






    • 2




      Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
      – Jasen
      yesterday










    • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
      – patstew
      yesterday










    • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday










    • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
      – pipe
      yesterday















    up vote
    16
    down vote













    Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
    enter image description here



    Always use fuses with batteries.



    Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
    enter image description here





    Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






    share|improve this answer





















    • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday






    • 2




      Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
      – Jasen
      yesterday










    • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
      – patstew
      yesterday










    • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday










    • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
      – pipe
      yesterday













    up vote
    16
    down vote










    up vote
    16
    down vote









    Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
    enter image description here



    Always use fuses with batteries.



    Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
    enter image description here





    Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.






    share|improve this answer












    Not a ground loop. But a short circuit:
    enter image description here



    Always use fuses with batteries.



    Instead, you can make it like this, so that there is only one common ground:
    enter image description here





    Drawback is unbalanced load on the battery. Meaning the left battery depletes faster, possible damaging it when the set is deep discharged. I recommend a battery balancer, or a 24V-12V power supply instead.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered yesterday









    Jeroen3

    10.7k1546




    10.7k1546












    • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday






    • 2




      Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
      – Jasen
      yesterday










    • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
      – patstew
      yesterday










    • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday










    • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
      – pipe
      yesterday


















    • Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday






    • 2




      Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
      – Jasen
      yesterday










    • @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
      – patstew
      yesterday










    • @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
      – Stian Yttervik
      yesterday










    • I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
      – pipe
      yesterday
















    Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
    – Stian Yttervik
    yesterday




    Newbie question: My initial thought on solving OP's issue run a separate gnd from the motor to the 0v referance between the batteries. I have a nagging feeling that would not be a good idea, looking at your solution. Would it?
    – Stian Yttervik
    yesterday




    2




    2




    Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
    – Jasen
    yesterday




    Or a 24V to 5V converter to power the aduino's VCC terminal
    – Jasen
    yesterday












    @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
    – patstew
    yesterday




    @StianYttervik You would still have a short circuit through your new wire instead of the Arduino PCB. Voltages are relative, it's entirely up to you what you call 0V, and in this case it makes most sense to label the leftmost terminal as 0V, the middle battery terminals as 12V and the rightmost as 24V. The important thing is not to connect a voltage source between GND and PWR-.
    – patstew
    yesterday












    @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
    – Stian Yttervik
    yesterday




    @patstew To my understanding the GND pole on the motor is for a referance ground (and instrument ground, for pwm and signals) not at all for running the motor. This is not so?
    – Stian Yttervik
    yesterday












    I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
    – pipe
    yesterday




    I think the unbalanced from an arduino on a car battery will be dwarfed by the current from a 10 A motor, so depending on how often the motor runs, the drawback is probably not that significant.
    – pipe
    yesterday












    up vote
    2
    down vote













    There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



    The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



    A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



    I would suggest the following:
    1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
    2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



    I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






    share|improve this answer

























      up vote
      2
      down vote













      There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



      The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



      A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



      I would suggest the following:
      1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
      2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



      I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






      share|improve this answer























        up vote
        2
        down vote










        up vote
        2
        down vote









        There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



        The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



        A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



        I would suggest the following:
        1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
        2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



        I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.






        share|improve this answer












        There is almost certainly a short circuit on the left hand battery.



        The motor driver is described as a "H-Bridge" meaning it switches both motor terminals, so it doesn't use a split positive and negative supply to enable it to reverse the motor, instead it routes positive to the motor negative terminal and negative to the motor positive terminal.



        A quick check with a continuity tester should confirm that battery -ve connects to logic input ground on the motor controller.



        I would suggest the following:
        1: If you can confirm the Arduino is grounded through the motor driver then don't make a second ground connection to the battery. Leaving this off prevents a situation where the heavy ground from the battery gets interrupted and the motor current flows through the lighter hookup wire and Arduino groundplane. The Arduino's current consumption should be low enough.
        2: I would suggest adding a series resistor in the connection from the battery to arduino (remembering to take 12V from the mid point NOT 24V). You can probably "afford" 10-100 ohms depending on how many LEDs are in use, and this will act as a cheap barrier to prevent switching noise from the motor driver reaching the Arduino. I'm assuming you can drop 5V and still meet the 7v requirement.



        I'm also a little concerned that a "12V" battery may actually be nearer 14V when off load and may exceed the Arduino's stated max input voltage.







        share|improve this answer












        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer










        answered yesterday









        Oliver Broad

        512




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